The Picky Eater

by Gazette Reporter

I’M late to the Fade Street Social party, having only frequented the place for the first time last week.
I had been given a voucher for Christmas but, having misplaced it, I was adamant that I wasn’t going to go until I found it.
After finally laying my hands on it a couple of weeks ago, I booked a table for two in the main restaurant.
We arrived on a Friday night at 7.15pm to an absolutely heaving restaurant, and it’s obvious that this place is still basking in its “very current” status, with plenty of minor celebrities and cool types taking pictures of their food and, no doubt, posting them straight onto social media platforms.
The Maitre D’ could immediately tell that we were novices to the place, as we ogled the menu with wide eyes, such was the choice – or rather, the manner in which it is presented.
To start, I ordered the beef tongue and scallop (€9.50), whilst my other half went for oysters (€11.95).
The tongue and carpaccio of scallop had thin, raw slices of Irish scallop marinated in chervil and lemon zest on hot truffle cheese flat bread, with crispy beef tongue and celeriac puree.
My starter was absolutely bursting with flavour, and that slightly methaney-explosion from the truffle really was rather satisfying.
The natural oysters came with chilled, cured salmon cream, cucumber, lemon shallot dressing and seaweed.
There’s an old saying: “Don’t eat oysters when there is no ‘r’ in the month”.
It being June, a friend quoted this to us after dinner, but when I double-checked with Safe Food Ireland, I can safely say this is not the case.
You see, Ireland has a shellfish safety monitoring programme in place, to ensure shellfish containing biotoxins are not harvested and placed on the market, so we can safely consume oysters all year round now …
Anyway, enough of the science part – they were delicious!
Next, I chose a lamb, fennel and olive flat bread (€11) for my main, which came with black olive bechamel, lamb mince, fennel puréee, parmesan, deep-fried anchovy, lemon confit, fennel powder, chopped black olives, cold dill and fennel salad.
Very tasty, and the only thing I didn’t like was the deep-friend anchovy, as I prefer them fresh.
My partner’s trout (€24) was roasted with brown shrimp, tomato and smoked butter sauce and, for me, this was the stand-out dish.
I believe trout is very underrated, and I believe chef and proprietor Dylan McGrath has shown just what this fish can do with this plate.
We ordered a side of the seasonal micro vegetables (€7.50), pulled from the ground.
These are bound in butter, chervil, mint with pea puree, and was like something from a fairy tale – the dish had such vivid colours and the flavours were sublime.
We also drank a delicious bottle of house wine (€23.50), which was a fine accompaniment.
I really liked Fade Street Social. The menu could lead you to believe the food is pretentious, but that is most definitely not the case, and I’m sure this place will be a firm favourite on the food scene for many years to come.

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