Review: Morelands Grill offers a fabulous food experience

by Gary Ibbotson

Located in the iconic Westin Hotel on Westmoreland Street, Morelands Grill is a relatively new addition to Dublin’s high-end restaurant offerings.

Opened in April 2017, the establishment is marketed as an “urban eatery” and steakhouse.

Although just over two years old, the restaurant’s decor seems almost dated.

Teal and gold suede dress the chairs while the dim lighting brings little vibrancy to the often monotone colour scheme of the space.

With contemporary establishments frequently opting for quirky, rustic, or more colourful decoration, Morelands Grill sleek take on a classic cosmopolitan restaurant feels outmoded or stale.

However, the most important part of a restaurant’s offerings, is and always will be, the food.

The starter of choice was scallops and the notoriously difficult to cook molluscs were served with cauliflower “textures” and black pudding crumble.

Perfectly browned and simply plated, the scallops were delicious.

A simple dish that is so easy to get wrong, the natural umami flavour paired well with the crunch of the cauliflower and black pudding.

Prominently advertised on the menu and website, Morelands Grill says it uses a Josper Grill to cook their steaks.

Apparently hitting temperatures of 500°C, the grill is meant to create a perfectly crispy seal which locks in “the natural flavour and juices of the meat.”

Upon hearing such bold claims, the obvious choice for the main course was the 14oz rib-eye.

Served with a mushroom puree and potato fondant, the meat was perfectly cooked to medium-rare.

There wasn’t a massive difference in the crispiness of skin compared to a regular sear but that wasn’t really an issue for me. It was still melt-in-your-mouth level tender and an example of what a perfectly prepared and cooked steak should taste like.

For dessert, I decided to go for the staff recommended ice-cream sundae.

Not a conventional dessert recommendation for a high-end restaurant but I respect the ingenuity and creativeness of adapting such a time-honoured staple.

Constructed with ice-cream made on Glastry Farm in County Down with pecans, caramel drizzle, fresh cream, and an assortment of other decadent garnishes, it was a great tribute to the fan-favourite dish.

Finished off with a glass of Morgan Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, it is hard to find fault with overall offering of Morelands Grill.

The decor may be slightly dated but with food that hits such high standards, it feels dishonest to say the furniture is a turn-off.

Quality ingredients, well prepared food and welcoming staff is more than enough to make a restaurant feel special – and the Morelands Grill is certainly not lacking in any of them.

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